S & P Magazine

Dining Out

Restaurant Review

The Hangedman’s Arch, Newbridge, Co Kildare.

Restaurant: Critic Terry Keane

“It was a few minutes drive (after the champagne, we were grateful for the chauffeur!) to Hanged Man’s restaurant, the multi award-winning pub/restaurant near Milltown, owned by Pat Keane (no relation!). Pat put Berney’s of Kilcullen on the culinary map before he bought his restaurant six years ago. He was pleasant and welcoming, modest about his achievements and helpful with the wine list. He recommended a wine from Uruguay – Vina Progreso Resene Tannaf, 2002 (€33.50), which I would never have picked, but it turned out to be an excellent choice: fruity, rounded and full of flavour. The menu was simple with six starters and three specials and a choice of 11 plates for the main course, which was more than ample for a pub/restaurant menu. The tiger prawns wrapped in spinach and wonton pastry, served with a spicy plum dip, was tempting, but so was the goat’s cheese tart with basil and pesto and the seafood chowder. In the end, I went for the soup of the day, a delicious and comforting carrot and ginger (€4.50), whilst Constance had mozzarella and tomato with basil and pesto dressing (€12.50). “It’s got a light, fresh, summary flavour which is quite euphoric in mid-winter,” was her verdict. …. “

“The main courses were mouth watering just to read. Roquefort fillet, lamb shanks, roast stuffed peppers, baked yoghurt garlic chicken, baked salmon in a fennel cream all sensibly priced between €24.50 and €29.50. Constance had no hesitation in picking the boiled loin of bacon and cabbage (€24.50) and asked for second helpings of parsley sauce “its comfort food at its best and my favourite meal along with bangers and mash and Shepard’s pie. This is as good as Mammy’s was.” She raved. I was equally satisfied with my honey roasted duck (€25.50) which was served on a bed of champ...”

“Before either of us got ruffled a magnificent platter of puddings arrived for our delectation. She dived for the chocolate cake, whilst I pigged out on a miraculous melange of brandy cream and almonds called Maskertoff tarte. A half bottle of Max Chapoutier’s Muscat de Beaume de Venise, 2004 (€24) rounded off a delightful evening. The service was friendly, unobtrusive and efficient….”

“The food fulfilled Pat Keane’s aspiration “to serve good fresh food in an interesting and unusual way, consistently. “

Pub Kildare